Plumbing, Heating and Pool Repair Guides

Hayward Chlorinator Troubleshooting & Repair Guide

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The Hayward Chlorinator comes in an offline and an inline model. The inline chlorinator connects using PVC fitting and unions and is piped “inline” with the swimming pool plumbing. The “offline’ Hayward Chlorinator hooks up in a completely different way. This type hooks up using flexible chlorine feeder hoses with saddle connection fittings. Now that you know that there are two different styles of the chlorinators you will now have to find out what type you have before you can start working on it.Hayward Automatic Chlorinator Troubleshooting

Before working on either the in ground model which is the CL220 or the above ground swimming pool model which is the CL110 you will always want to make sure you can run the pool water though the chlorinator for a few minutes. Sometimes chlorine gas can build up inside the chlorinator and when you open it, the gas could make you sick. Always be sure to stand back when removing a chlorinator lid that has chlorine tablets inside of it. Try to always run water through the chlorinator by turning the pool on first, this was NOT a typo that was said twice, Chlorine gas can be very dangerous, be careful anytime you work with any type of swimming pool chlorine or tablets.
Hayward Automatic Chlorinator
When working on the chlorinator you will want to make sure that your swimming pool filter system is shut off. You will also want to unplug t he pump cord if possible to prevent the swimming pool timer from kicking on the pool pump while you are working on rebuilding your Hayward Chlorinator.

How To Replace The Hayward CL220 & CL110 Cover O-Ring

One of the most common o-rings that will leak on both the CL220 and the CL110 Hayward Chlorinators is the top cover gasket as shown in part number 6 in the diagram. This part is called the Hayward Chlorinator Cover Replacement O-ring if you should decide to buy the part at a local pool supply store such as Leslies or even online.

The first thing you will need to is to remove the hold down screw that connects the top of the cover to the bottom disk below. You will first need to remove the cover that protects the hold down screw. This hold down cover is part #1 in the diagram. The hold down screw you will be removing is part #2 in the diagram. Once you remove the screw, which is, plastic you can remove part #5, which is the bottom, halve of the cover. You will now to be able to see the o-ring. You can now take a flat head screwdriver and pop the o-ring of the bottom part of the cover disk. Once the old o-ring is removed you can replace it with the new Chlorinator o-ring that you have purchased. You will also want to put a bit of Jack’s Pool Magic grease on the o-ring to prevent it from drying out.
Hayward CL220 Chlorinator Parts Diagram
Now that the new o-ring is back on the disk you can start to put the chlorinator back together in the reverse order that was described you above. Be careful and do not over tighten the hold down screw or you could crack it. It’s only made from plastic so you need to be careful when tightening this back down.

How To Replace The Hayward CL110 Chlorine Feed Hoses

The Hayward CL110 Chlorinator is a bit different from the CL220 model. This model uses flexible black chlorine feeder hoses to connect the tank to the filter system. From time to time these lines will become brittle and need to be replaced. You can buy replacement Hayward Chlorine feeder lines online or from a local swimming pool supply store.

To replace the lines on the Hayward CL110 Chlorinator you will need to loosen the nuts at the end of each line. Turning them counter clockwise will loose these nuts, be sure to do it carefully or the chlorine feeder line nuts could break or strip out. Once the nuts are loose you can remove both the feed and return lines. The Hayward re-build kit for the Chlorinator should have new nuts and lines in the pack.

You will now want to measure the length of the lines before cutting them and it’s very important to cut them straight or they will leak. Once you have pre cut the lines you will want to slip on the new lock down nuts and screw them on to the saddle fittings that you removed them from. Make sure to hold the line in all the way as you are tightening them down to ensure a proper seal. If the lines leak after installing new ones your problem could be an end that is cut on an angle, go back and re-cut that end of the line and re-install the line and you should not have a leak.

How To Adjust The Chlorine Setting on The CL110 & CL220

On the side of the Hayward CL220 & the CL110 is an adjustment knob that has a dial setting on it. The dial setting ranges from 1 to 10. You can use this dial on the side of the chlorinator to control the amount of chlorine that goes back into your swimming pool. To increase the level of the chlorine into the pool you would want to turn the dial up towards the 10 setting. If you wanted to have the chlorine feeder feed at the lowest setting you would adjust the dial to 1. Most people keep the dial set on mid way, which is 5, until the pool is running for about 2 weeks and then fine tune it later on for the proper chlorine levels.

How To Check The Direction Of Flow On The Hayward Chlorinator

In order for the Hayward CL220 or the CL110 to work right you must have the chlorinator set and installed with the correct direction of flow. On the side of the chlorine feeder you will see an arrow that says, “flow”. This arrow needs to be pointed towards the return side of the swimming pool plumbing.

How To Drain The Hayward CL Style Chlorinator:

If you want to drain the chlorinator you will find a drain plug on the bottom. You can use a 9/16 open-end wrench to remove this drain plug. Turn the drain plug counter clockwise and then the drain plug will be able to be removed. Once you remove the drain plug all the water will properly drain from the chlorinator if it is standing in the upward position.

150 Comments

  1. Hi,

    My Hayward CL220 is about 9 years old I think. First, the pool service people broke the tab that locks the top and, incidentally, tells you when you have the top tight enough. Second, my chlorine has been very low for two weeks. I had to supliment with granulated every 4 days. I checked the flow with the top off and didn’t see much. I cleaned the regulating valve and got a strong flow and loaded the thing with 6 big sticks. Still the chlorine is very low. Took the top off and got a good flow. Put the top on and got no chlorine. What to do, what to do? Ed

  2. Joseph,

    Times are tight. Replacing sounds like the easy answer. If I am getting a good flow with the top off why can’t I get a good flow with the top on? Could the feed or exit line be clogged? What else could be wrong? Who wants to spend money that can be avoided? What would you do?

    Ed

  3. How much chlorine tabs should I add to the automatic chlorinator for my inground pool? My chlorine levels are usually very low.

  4. Hi. My Hayward Chlorinator is leaking through the top part…I will try to replace the O Ring first…but what else could cause this? It seems the water keeps filling all the way to the top and is overflowing through the cap. I backwashed…checked for leaks elsewhere…nothing.

  5. I have a Hayward CL-200 chlorinator. When I turn on the filter I hear a sound coming from inside the chlorinator. I opened the top and saw that there was no water inside and that that is the cause of the noise. When I fill the chlorinator with water the noise stops until the water level goes down again. What’s wrong with this? Also, I sometimes have air bubbles mixed in with the water in the returns and my filter is running at a very high level (about 25) even after I opened and cleaned out the filter. Help!

  6. Dear Joseph, I have everything after I bought the house but don’t know to use them, include the chlorinator, It is Hayward, look like CL220, I saw the two holes , one on the pipe after the pump but before the filter, one is on the return pipe. So according the flowing direction on the feeder shows, I connect input line #12 to the first hole, the output line to the 2nd. The first time I opened the cap, I was used to put 6-7 tab, now it only 2 left, I know it was dispensing, so I refilled them 7-8. Before I put shuck to the pool many times because of the algea, the problem was solved, but after 2-3 times rainning, the chlorine become 0. I spinned the #8 knob to full, but after 15 hrs, it still the same, the chlorine is 0. What should I do? My pool is pretty big, it is kind of 40000 gallons, and it is linner pool.

    • Hi Lu,

      The “rain water” eats up chlorine fast.

      I would first test your water for “hardness” and also “stabilizer” if your hardness and stabilizer is good you will just need to shock the pool and then run the filter as normal.

      But either way I would recommend shocking the pool, I don’t think you have a problem with the Chlorine feeder, well it doesn’t sound like it,. The problem sounds more like a chemical issue.

      I would test what I mentioned above and let me know if you have any more questions.

      Joseph

    • Hi Doug,

      Shut the filter system off and then open the air bleed screw on top of the pool filter to release the vacuum,

      Also be sure to push the “tab” before trying to remove the top.

      Let me know if you need more help,

      Joseph

  7. I have a CL 220 chlorinator. I think my adjuster knob is faulty or I have a crack internally in the housing. With the adjuster set at “0” I’m going through 3″ slow disolving tablets like mad and can’t get my chlorine level below 3 ppm (unless I stop adding tablets). I installed the unit two summers ago and did not have any problems last year. Any suggestions?

    Thanks,

    Jim

  8. im having a problem with no clorine at all in my pool. I have the hayward cl200. serial # 350L34. The clorinator is about 4 or 5 years old. Never had any problems. Could the adjusting mecanisum be broke? Should i just buy another one? Or do you think its another problem?

    • Hi Ron,

      If you set the Chrolinator on “full” and the Chlorine Tabs are not dissolving then I would say that the Chrloinator adjustment mechanism is broken, and I would suggest just getting a new Chlorinator.

      Let me know if you need any other help, or have more questions.

      Joseph

  9. I purchased an new Haywood CL220 about a month and a half ago and have never gotten it to work right. When I turn the knob on (past zero), the chlorinator will not maintain a water level inside. I’ve tried filling it with water, putting the cap on, then turning the knob up, but the water will drain to a couple inches within a few hours. I’ve re-checked that the connections are installed in the right direction and tight – there is no evidence of leakage. The water is just leaving the chlorinator faster than it’s coming in – and the tablets obviously are not dissolving. Could I have an obstruction somewhere or just a bad chlorinator? Any suggestions on what to do? Our pool is 30,000 gallons.

  10. The hose on my Hayward chlorine feeder is leaking. Is this a simple thing to fix? It is an offline feeder. I’m nervouse to unscrew the tube that is leaking. I assume that when I turn off the pump everything should be ok. I’m not that handy but this doesn’t seem like it should be too difficult.

  11. Help: Everytime I try to screw the top to the clorinator water squirts out. I have taken on and off 50 times and can’t get it right. Why:::::::

  12. I have troubled to screw the chlorinator lid all the way to the lock position. It is too tight for me to close it futher. But there is no leak or anything….. should I worry or just leave it.

  13. Joseph,
    Think I already know the answer, but it never hurts to check with someone more knowledgeable. Replaced by CL220 last year and after a refill it started to leak so I replaced to O-ring, since it appeared to be slightly swelled and didn’t stay in the groove, however the top takes about 2-tons of force (slightly exaggerated, but not by much), to get it to move that last 3 inches so the locking tab catches. On several occasions I’d open it up and the water level was low, but lots of chlorine gas build up. Is it a correct assumption that the gas probably warped the tube or lid? Starts to thread on just fine, but boy, that last 3 inches is a killer and if I don’t get it to the tab it leaks.
    Thanks
    Chuck

  14. Thanks Joseph,

    Hey, do you know of a brand of chlorinator that either has a shallow threaded top or a snap & lock top or something that doesn’t warp when exposed to chlorine gas? I found one by Swimline model NA342, but can’t tell from the picture if the lid screws down or is a twist and lock lid.
    Any suggestions on a unit that doesn’t need to be replaced every year due to warping?

    Thanks

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