Hayward Super Pump Repair Guide
By Hayward is very well known in the swimming pool industry for the great quality swimming pool products they make. One of their most popular lines of swimming pool pumps is called the Hayward Super Pump. This pump is offered in both the Super Pump Standard and The Super Pump II. The Super pump is installed in millions of backyards all over the world and is well known for its long lasting life.
Even though the Hayward Super Pump is one of the top pumps in the industry, the daily use of this pump will eventually require troubleshooting and Hayward Super Pump repair. These repair are not that hard to do yourself if you are the hands on kind of repair person. If you are not comfortable working on with basic hand tools you could always bring the pump down to a local repair shop and have them diagnose and fix your pump. Things like the mechanical pump seal, pump bearings, pump gaskets and so on will have top be replaced along the way. Most of these things can be repaired in a few hours with replacement Hayward parts that are generally sold at your local swimming pool supply store.
Below you will find the most common things that will have to be repaired on the Hayward Super Pump swimming pool pump. Most of the repairs on this pump can be preformed with a 9/16″ inch socket or wrench, a Flathead screwdriver and a pair of channel lock pliers.
How To Change The Super Pump Seal
The Hayward Super pump uses a two part mechanical seal to protect the motor from the wet end of the pump. This seal can be replaced in a few small steps and will only take an hour or two if you have a set of wrenches and some other basic hand tools.
The first thing you will want to do is to disconnect the pump and drain it free of any water that may be in the volute. You can do this by removing the two drain plugs on the pump. One will be in the front of the pump and one will be on the side. Once the pump is drained out you will want to remove the four 9/6 bolts that connect the Hayward Pump housing to the motor bracket. Once you do this pump housing will separate from the motor end of the pump and you will now see the impeller. Grab hold of the impeller and turn it counter clockwise until it spins off of the pump motor shaft. You may have to hold the other end of the pump shaft with a pair of pliers. You can do this by removing the back motor cover. Now that the impeller is off of the motor shaft you will able to see both parts of the pump seal. Slide the pump seal spring off of the impeller and place it to the side. You will be replacing this with the new one in a few minutes. The second part of the Hayward mechanical pump seal is located in the pump seal housing. You will now need to take your finger and pull the ceramic seat from the seal housing. This ceramic seal seat will be wrapped with a black rubber washer, make sure you also remove that from the pump seal housing.
Now that you have both parts of the seal removed from the pump you can replace both parts of the seal with the replacement Hayward Super Pump seal. When re-inserting the ceramic seat you may want to put a small amount of silicon on the rubber casing to ensure that you will not have a leak. You can now screw the impeller back onto the pump shaft and re-attach the volute to the motor of the pump. Make sure you prime the Hayward Super Pump before you run it by filling the wet end of the pump with water before turning it on.
How To Prime The Hayward Super Pump:
The Hayward super pump is considered a self-priming swimming pool pump but this does not mean that the pump will actually prime itself if dry. When any type of swimming pool pump is dry you will have to fill the volute of the pump with water. This will allow the pump impeller to create a suction draw and start to pull the water from the swimming pool plumbing.
To prime the Hayward Super Pump you will just need a bucket of water or a garden hose. The first thing you will want to do is to remove the Super Pump Cover or also know as the pump basket cover. This lid will be made from clear plastic and will have two black handles knobs on each side. To remove the pump cover you will have to loosen each knob counter clockwise until the fold to the side. Once the knobs are loose you can remove the pump cover.
Now that the cover is off of the super pump volute also know as the wet end of the pump, you can take your bucket of water and pour it into the pump until the pump basket area is completely full of water. Now that the pump is full of water you can put the cover back onto the volute of the Hayward Super Pump. You swimming pool pump is now considered to be primed and you can now go ahead and turn on the pump. It may take a few minutes for the pump to fully be up to prime once it’s running.
How To Install The Hayward Super Pump
There are two fitting connections on the Hayward Super Pump housing. These inlets can be either 1.5″ inches or 2″ inches depending on the horsepower and size of your super pump. You will need to connect both side of the pump to your swimming pool system. On the front of the Hayward Super Pump is the suction side inlet. You will want to connect this side of the pump to the suction side of your swimming pool plumbing. The suction side of the swimming pool system is the side that has the main drain and skimmers hooked up to it. Some pools will not have a main drain, but every pool will have a skimmer or two. The suction side of the Hayward Super Pump will connect to the skimmer and the main drain.
On the top of the Hayward Super Pump is where you will find the discharge fitting connection. The discharge side of the super pump will get connected to the discharge side of your swimming pool system. The discharge side of the swimming pool system powers the swimming pool returns, pool vacuums and sometimes the pool slide or water fall if they are installed on the pool. Usually the discharge side of the Hayward Super Pump will get directly plumbed into the pump side of the multi-port directional valve and then the multi-port will connect to the discharge side of the pool plumbing. Once the both the suction side and the discharge side of the Hayward Pump are connected you can prime the pump and start it up making sure it reaches a full prime.
How To Drain The Hayward Super Pump
Draining the Super pump can be fast and easy to do. You will want to grab a 9/16″ box wrench or adjustable wrench and remove the two drain plugs that are on the bottom of the Hayward pump housing. You will find one drain plug on the from of the pump housing and one on the side. Once the water stops draining from the drain plugs holes your pump will now be drained.
How To Change The Hayward Pump Cover Gasket:
The pump cover gasket is easy and fast to change. This gasket often has to be replaced every few years because of all the opening and closing of the pump cover. The replacement of this gasket is part of the normal maintenance of the super pump. To install a new Hayward pump cover gasket you will need to remove the pump cover from the pump housing of the pump. You can do this by turning the two black hold down knobs counter clockwise until you can fold them to the side, so you can lift and remove the cover.
Once you have the cover off of the pump housing you can take a Flathead screwdriver and pry out the old pump cover gasket. Sometimes they melt or can be stuck, so you may have to do a bit of scraping if your gasket is really old. Most of the time the pump cover gasket will just pull right out. Once you have fully removed the old pump cover gasket you will want to insert the new gasket by firmly pressing the gasket into the groove on the pump housing. Once the gasket is set in place you can re-install the pump lid and re-start your pump, your cover gasket is now changed.
How To Change The Super Pump Motor Bearings:
If your super pump is “screaming” or making lots of noise chances are you will need to replace the motor shaft bearings that are inside of the motor. To do so you will have to remove the motor end from the pump housing. Once you have the motor removed from the pump housing you can remove the impeller and the pump seal housing. Now that the pump seal housing, the impeller and everything has been removed from the motor end you can start to take apart the motor.
You will need to remove the pump motor through bolts and then remove the front and the rear cover from the motor casing. Once the through bolts and the covers are removed you slide the motor armature shaft out from the casing. Once you removed the motor armature you will have to remove the old motor bearings and then press on new ones. Once your new bearings are pressed on to the motor armature shaft you can start to re-assemble the super pump in the reverse order that you took it apart. Take your time and put it back together the correct way. Do not forget to replace the water sling on the motor as well.
Super Pump Troubleshooting and Common Problems:
Problem: “My Hayward Super Pump Will Not Prime”
Solution: You will always want to make sure you have no air leaks in the suction side of the pump or the swimming pool plumbing. This can cause the pump not to prime. Make sure the unions and the pump cover are tight. Also make sure to fill the pump housing with water before starting the motor.
Problem: “I have air inside my pump cover and bubbles in my swimming pool.”
Solution: When you have air coming out of your swimming pool returns this means that your pump is sucking air from somewhere. Check your suction fitting and drain plugs to make sure they are tight and not leaking. You also will want to make sure you pump housing cover lid is good as well.
If You Have Any More Questions Or Problems Please Ask:
I have a Hayward Pump. It just stopped working 4 days ago. The breaker was tripped, we reset it, but as soon as we try to turn the pump on again, the breaker trips again. Any ideas? We are clueless.
Thanks,
Tracy
Hi Tracey,
Have you checked the pump skimmer basket to make sure nothing is clogging the impeller?
I would check that first and then check the motor bearings to see if they are seized ;-)
Let me know if you need more help.
Joseph
I’m an idiot and was soaking my salt cell to remove calcium and forgot to come back and finish the job. Later that night the timer turned the pump on and pumped the water all over the place because of the opening left and the pump went dry. I came back and the circuit breaker was tripped. I put it all back together and it worked for a couple of nights until I noticed the pump not working when it should have been. I turn on the pump but it pops the breaker after a few seconds. I disconnected the pump from the wet section and turned it on and it still only would spin for a couple of seconds.
I already ordered a new motor a week ago from an online company. It hasn’t shipped yet for some reason, but I am trying to decide if it’s something like the bearings that are $18 instead of $200 for a new motor.
Hi,
If you are handy or mechanically inclined, I would attempt to change the motor bearings first, it sounds like your motor just burnt all the grease out of the bearings when it over heater. I would also replace the pump seal as well.
Let me know if you have any other questions or if you need other help.
Joseph
Thank you, I did replace the motor, but I plan on trying to repair the old one as a backup in the likely event I should screw up again or another pump fails on it’s own at some point. I might still replace the seal too since I think it was leaking water into the motor area as a result and might be doing the same thing to my new motor already.
Hi,
Its always a good idea to have a back up for sure and for $18 for the bearings its well worth it,
Let me know if you need more help in the future and have a Great Thanksgiving!
Joseph
Pump spins for about 3 secs then it flips the breaker and shuts off. Any ideas, Is my pump motor gone.
Hi
Are the pump motor bearings loud?
Have you checked the pump basket for sticks or something blocking the impeller?
Let me know,
Joseph
Like another comment on this page, I too get the “humming” sound when I turn on the pump. It usually only occurs when the pump is hot such as when I turn off the pump to clean out the basket, or turn it off to move the flow valve for backwash, etc. When I turn it back on, I get the humming. Sometimes it humms for a few seconds and comes on. Other times, it hums for 15 or so seconds and then shuts itself off. It won’t even try to start again until it has cooled back down. I’m never standing outside in the morning when it comes on via timer, but it’s always on so I assume it has no trouble starting up when it’s cold… only seems to be when the motor is hot. Any ideas? The pool/pump is only two years old, so it seems odd I would be having the same troubles some would be having with older pumps… but I am in Florida and the pump runs for about 12 hours per day every day of the year.
Any ideas? I don’t want to go replacing a bunch of things “hoping” that it solves the problem. Thanks!
I have low pressure in my pump. I was out of town and the pool filled with leaves. I think something is clogged, but all of the baskets (Skimmer & pump) and filters are clean and in place. I’m trying a hose pressure gizmo that swells in the pipe to make sure things are cleaned out.
I don’t really know how to diagnose low pressure, vs a clogged system.
Ideas?
Hi
Have you tried back washing the filter? A clogged filter will not allow the pump to fully prime and cause you to have low pressure. I would check that first. Let me know if you need more help,
Joseph
It’s a cartridge filter, and I’ve cleaned it. In fact, when it gets clogged the pressure goes up to 20 psi or so. Right now it’s at 2 – 3 psi. It should be around 10 -12 psi without the solar on. It doesn’t have the pressure to push the solar in this condition.
Turns out the pump was clogged with leaves. I had a cracked basket, but I didn’t think thing were getting past it, but obviously I was wrong!
All is sweetness and light now… :)
Filter fitting broke when I was away from home and pumped a bunch of pool water out. I’m sure the pump ran dry for a while. I fixed the fitting and the pump ran for a few days after that but then wouldn’t come on. It’s a Hayward pump. I’ve checked voltage at the connections to the motor and I’m getting 230V. Breaker didn’t trip. Doesn’t hum or nothing. Seized bearings? Bad capacitor? All of the above? To make matters worse, all the data on the label to the motor has faded and I can’t tell what size motor it is to replace it. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Ken
Hi Ken
If you have 1 1/2 pumping its probably a 1 HP or 1.5 HP Hayward Super pump.
1) Open the pump basket and see if you can spin the impeller, this will determine if your pump is seized. If your shaft spins then you know the bearings are still good.
2) I would then replace the capacitor and in the meantime make sure that the motor windings are dry.
ALSO – This page has 115 responses, you may want check them out as well as they are packed with info.
Let me know if you need more help or have any other questions.
Happy Holidays!
Joseph
I have an 11 yr old Hayward super 11 2 1/2 HP that has developed a leak at the gasket between the seal plate and where it bolts to the pump housing. I have replaced the gasket 3 times, using generous amounts of seal lubricant, replaced the seal plate/seal assy, and replaced the motor mount plate, suspecting warpage. Nothing I do will stop leakage around the housing gasket flange area. I have torqued bolts incrementaly from a quarter turn to tight. I have torqued bolts in all reasonable patterns and have probably had this apart and together 20 times, but nothing works. All I do is move the leak to a new position which I would estimate at about 3 gallons per 5 hours run time. I called in a pool guy and he was as perplexed as I. The only thing left is to change the filter housing, but am reluctent to do that as it is expensive and the way it sits I would have to completely redo plumbing for inflow and outflow, plus I really do not believe it is the problem. I am at my wits end. Any suggesting would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Steve,
Sorry for the delayed response.
The good news is that I have been working on pool and super pumps for over 17 years. I think I may be able to help you.
If you don’t want to buy a new housing and I can understand why since they are not to cheap – Then my suggestion is to get a new gasket and then take some 100% silicon which you can buy for a chalking gun or in a tube, you will want to get the clear stuff and then you will take the pump apart and then silicon it heavy and let dry for 24 hours.
You won’t have any more leaks ;-)
I would also suggest making sure that the threads are super clean and do not have dirt in them, I have been on many service calls where over the winter dirt made its way into the threads and then the bolts seemed tight but actually were not tightening down all the way.
Also make sure that the mechanical seal is not leaking and deflecting water onto the water sling making it look like its coming from the gasket.
Let me know if you have any more questions or need more help.
Happy Holidays!!
Joseph
Thanks for your reply and suggestion which I will definitely try. I am a little bit confused, where exactly do I apply the silicon? Would it be on the mating flange, but not cover the rubber gasket? Or do I remove the rubber gasket and silicon over that groove also?
thanks
You were spot-on with your suggestion. I put a bead of silicon on the housing flange, let it set for 24 hrs, then installed the pump. Wahla, NO LEAK. Thank you very much for the suggestion.
Enjoy the Holidays
Hiya Steve,
Glad it worked out for ya, Have a wonderful holiday season and if you need anything in the future, just stop on by,
Happy Holidays,
Joseph
I am trying to take off the impeller to get at the motor plate to replace the motor on a hayward superpumpII 1 1/2 horsepower. It seems to be stuck. I can’t spin it off. Is there a trick I should know or should I just use more muscle. I don’t want to break it.
Hi Mark,
Happy Holidays !!
Here is how you remove the impeller,
1) Remove the rear end bell / motor cover and you see the motor shaft,
2) Take a pair of pliers or a wrench that fits the square part on the shaft and “hold back” on the shaft.
3) Spin the impeller counter-clockwise while holding the shaft as described above.
And the impeller should spin off. It may take a bit of muscle or you could alternatively use a strap wrench.
Let me know if you need more help or have any other questions,
Joseph
My superpump II 2.5 -.042HP pump will not run. It starts for a second and then turns off. The motor keeps trying to start but trips off in 30-60 minute intervals. The breaker does not trip. I tried bypassing the Jandy RS controler and wired the pump directly to the breaker with the same result. Any ideas?
Thanks
Harry
I have just read all the comments on this page and learned a lot about why pumps will not prime and leaks. I allowed the return drain and skimmer to clogg with leaves. This moringing, the pool was covered with foam and the pump was cavitating. I am sure it is in the impellor, but I am not sure the cause. Did the pump overheat and burn up the seal or seals? How is the air getting into the line at the pump? I am planning on replacing the seals (or should I get a new impellor?)but really wonder exactly what happened inside the pump.
Great site. Thanks.
Tony
Hi Tony,
Usually what happens is that the pump will not have enough water to keep the prime and then the water left inside of the pump will start to get red hot and create steam. This could warp the fittings on the top and the front of the pump (Suction & Discharge) and sometime if the water inside gets hot enough the pump housing could melt / get out of shape.
Sometimes a cracked skimmer basket will allow enough debris through and that will clog the impeller and then over heat the pump.
Check out this article called “Your Pump Will Suck Air” For some tips on how to get the air leaks out of the pump.
http://wetheadmedia.com/your-pool-pump-will-suck-air/
Let me know if you need more help and Happy Holidays !!
Joseph
Hayward super pump…3/4 hp
I back washed my filter… turned it off, cleaned the basket and the Polaris…. was distracted by other errands, did not take the filter off of backwash and the pump ran almost dry before I caught it. On prime and restart the bearings squealed a bit but stopped in a few minutes…. If I have to replace them I have a question or two.
I want to do it myself as the local pool store will only replace a motor not work on them…….. I read about how to do this and think I can but the discussion mentioned pressing in the new bearings, does this require special tools or a press? (do they sell them so that this is unnecessary?)
Where can I get detailed instructions?
Hi Murray,
Happy Holidays!
You can remove the bearings with a bearing puller and replace them with a small arbor press or use a deep socket and a hammer to tap them back onto the shaft,
You can check out this article called: Polaris Booster Pump & Motor Overhaul / Rebuild Guide and it will go into full detail on how to rebuild this type of electric motor.
Direct Link:
http://wetheadmedia.com/polaris-booster-pump-motor-overhaul-rebuild-guide/
The Only thing different is that the super pump motor has a switch,
If you like I could compose a fresh new article with exact instructions on how to change the super pump bearings if the article above still leaves you with questions.
Let me know if you need more help or if you would like me to write a detailed post.
Joseph
Wow… that was a quick answer…. thanks.
The pump is still running quiet I am hoping I dodged a bullet (or bearing)
If it turns out I need to replace them I will check out that site…. and see if I can borrow or buy a bearing puller.
Hi,
No problem, That link is also our website ;-)
I am always around if you do need help!
Happy Holidays !!
Joseph
I have a hayward super pump that quit running and tripped the braker while away on holiday, I came home reset the breaker and turned the pump on manually but a big spark shot out the bottom of the pump. I messed around with the impeller some to make sure it wasnt ceased up and tried to turn it back on, now all it does is hum and smoke. Think the pump is shot or should I try to replace the capacitor as stated in above comments? Thank you for your help
Joshua
Hi Joshua,
Happy Holidays !!
I would suggest changing the capacitor if the pump motor shaft is spinning freely. Is there any reason why you think the pump stopped running? Did the pump flood or get extremely wet, or you have no idea?
I would also check the contacts on the motor switch as well.
Please let me know if you need more help!
Joseph
I have no idea why it stopped running the pump is outside in the weather with no cover but it has been like that for years, getting rained on ect.. It rains here alot in SW florida so im sure it has gotten wet a number of times, but it has always run fine. I pulled off the cover to the end of the pump, everything seems to be intacked and nothing is loose, the pump is still humming but it is not tripping the breaker. I just hums and is getting a little warm and a little bit of smoke is coming out of it. I turned the impeller again and see that it is spinning all the way though the motor and is making contact with that part that is in the shape of a “V”. Still kind of boggled… the black round piece that I assume is the capacitor is getting warm as well. Nothing seems to be wet either. Thanks for your help, and happy holidays to you as well.
Hi Joshua,
Replace the capacitor and let me know how you make out,
Joseph