I have a hydrotherm high-efficiency boiler AM-100 (multi-pulse) and triangle tube indirect water heater for domestic water. The heating system is hydronic. I love how the system works. The only problem is that AM-100 is noisy and is getting harder to find parts for. I want to do the research on my next boiler in advance. I have some questions and I would appreciate your opinion!

1) relative to multi-pulse boilers, how noisy is the prestige solo 110?
2) my AM-100 model is 100BTU – would solo 110 be a logical replacement? The current AM-100 is doing a good job heating the house and the water.
3) I understand one needs to be certified by TT to install and maintain the boiler. If I take the certifiction course with TT – is that enough or do I need other certifications (like certified mechanic etc)? I’m mechanicall oriented person (DIYer) but no formal engineering education. (my current boiler/system is 20 years old so there I am not worried about the warranty).
4) my current piping is 3/4″ – is it a problem for solo 110? I saw in the manual that recommended pipe size is 1″.

I appreciate your responses!

BB

I’m not sure about the condensate disposal though as it is a good 30 feet to the closest drain. If it is only a few ounces a day I think draining it into a length of 4″ PVC with crushed limestone to neutralize the ph is as good an option as any. I’m all about simplicity.

I’m shocked to learn a lighter isn’t the best way to find a gas leak. Next you’ll be telling me looking into the business end of a garden hose isn’t the best way to tell when the water’s coming.

In Michigan all boilers must be installed by a licensed mechanical contractor. So if you can do it by code go ahead. The worst you can do is blow up the house. (Just kidding)

After I have seen these licensed guys checking for gas leaks with a BIC lighter, it makes you wonder.

If you do it yourself, here is some simple troubleshooting tips for start up.

The boiler will not light unless it has 10 PSI of pressure. It has a guage right on the front.
Purge the gas at the union inside the boiler. After 3 tries the boiler goes into a fault mode that you have to reset. (Push the reset button)

Venting is key to any high efficiency boiler. Read the manual and do it right.

Side note.
What type of heat is in your parent’s home? If it is baseboard heat or cast iron radiation heat that requires 180 degree water do you realy need a high efficiency boiler. All of the high efficiency boilers are only efficient at a low return water temperatures (below 140). The high efficiency boilers are only about 89% efficient at 180 degrees. Your everyday boiler now is 82% – 85%. So you are not gaining a lot of efficiency. If you need a new vent, then the up front price becomes a lot closer, as PVC is easier to run and costs less.

As far as replacing the water heater, if you can afford to do it. I have not seen a tank type water heater tell me it’s efficiency. The professionals best guess is around 60%. Even the PVC vented ones are no more efficient. They just blow out the vent to fast to melt the PVC.

Finally make the salesmen convince you with facts. Most of the salesmen are just smooth talkers. NEVER sign an agreement the same day. Think about it overnight first. Dont get caught up in the salesmen’s excitement and half truth. Ask the salemen about the other guys stuff. Most mechanical contractors buy products at 2 or 3 different wholesale houses. He has at least that many options on boilers. Is he lazy and only installs what he knows, or is he really looking to put the best in your house.

If nothing else look at how each are made, what materials are used (what grade of stainless steel) and how they are assembled.

The Lockinvar Knight is also highly recommended (2nd choice)depending on how it is installed. The Munchkin boiler was one of the first on the market, but is is very tempermenatal if not installed exactly right. It has received a bad reputation mostly on bad installs, but you have to wonder if so many people have had problems with them. Something elso to look at is required annual maintenance. Lockinvar, Munchkin and others with that heat exchanger require the boiler to be dissassembled annually and cleaned with lime away or CLR to clean the heat exchanger due to condensate steaming and clogging the heat exchanger. The Triangle Tube does not require that because of the top down burner design.

My current employers are looking at building several carwashes this summer, all of which will have infloor heat and snowmelt. They are strongly considering the Triangle Tube boiler over the equipment offered from the car wash equipment supplier. Not to mention the car wash people only want to supply 80% equipment. It is also a major plus that these are wall mounted, freeing up floor space, and PVC vented through the roof or side wall.

You mentioned replacing a 700 MBH boiler with a 399 MBH. Be careful on sizing. If you are doing snowmelt you can ballpark about 80 – 120 BTU/SQFT. If you are using infloor heat to heat the automatic wash bays (instead of tube heaters) than you should figure 35-40 BTU / SQFT. as long as you have automatic doors. It is alway best to err on the high side for sizing a modulating boiler. It will ramp down on it’s own, it costs a lot more to try to add on afterward. You may want to look at 2 250’s or 1 250 and 1 399.

Let me know if you need further comments or advise. I’m not selling anything so, it’s just another opinion for you.

No I am not employed by anyone related to Triangle Tube. I did however sell these boilers as well as Munchkin boilers and Lockinvar Knight boilers for several years wholesale.