Plumbing, Heating and Pool Repair Guides

Hayward Super Pump Repair Guide

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Hayward is very well known in the swimming pool industry for the great quality swimming pool products they make. One of their most popular lines of swimming pool pumps is called the Hayward Super Pump. This pump is offered in both the Super Pump Standard and The Super Pump II. The Super pump is installed in millions of backyards all over the world and is well known for its long lasting life.Hayward Super Pump Repair Guide

Even though the Hayward Super Pump is one of the top pumps in the industry, the daily use of this pump will eventually require troubleshooting and Hayward Super Pump repair. These repair are not that hard to do yourself if you are the hands on kind of repair person. If you are not comfortable working on with basic hand tools you could always bring the pump down to a local repair shop and have them diagnose and fix your pump. Things like the mechanical pump seal, pump bearings, pump gaskets and so on will have top be replaced along the way. Most of these things can be repaired in a few hours with replacement Hayward parts that are generally sold at your local swimming pool supply store.
Hayward Super Pool Pump
Below you will find the most common things that will have to be repaired on the Hayward Super Pump swimming pool pump. Most of the repairs on this pump can be preformed with a 9/16″ inch socket or wrench, a Flathead screwdriver and a pair of channel lock pliers.

How To Change The Super Pump Seal

The Hayward Super pump uses a two part mechanical seal to protect the motor from the wet end of the pump. This seal can be replaced in a few small steps and will only take an hour or two if you have a set of wrenches and some other basic hand tools.

The first thing you will want to do is to disconnect the pump and drain it free of any water that may be in the volute. You can do this by removing the two drain plugs on the pump. One will be in the front of the pump and one will be on the side. Once the pump is drained out you will want to remove the four 9/6 bolts that connect the Hayward Pump housing to the motor bracket. Once you do this pump housing will separate from the motor end of the pump and you will now see the impeller. Grab hold of the impeller and turn it counter clockwise until it spins off of the pump motor shaft. You may have to hold the other end of the pump shaft with a pair of pliers. You can do this by removing the back motor cover. Now that the impeller is off of the motor shaft you will able to see both parts of the pump seal. Slide the pump seal spring off of the impeller and place it to the side. You will be replacing this with the new one in a few minutes. The second part of the Hayward mechanical pump seal is located in the pump seal housing. You will now need to take your finger and pull the ceramic seat from the seal housing. This ceramic seal seat will be wrapped with a black rubber washer, make sure you also remove that from the pump seal housing.

Now that you have both parts of the seal removed from the pump you can replace both parts of the seal with the replacement Hayward Super Pump seal. When re-inserting the ceramic seat you may want to put a small amount of silicon on the rubber casing to ensure that you will not have a leak. You can now screw the impeller back onto the pump shaft and re-attach the volute to the motor of the pump. Make sure you prime the Hayward Super Pump before you run it by filling the wet end of the pump with water before turning it on.

Hayward Super Pump Parts Diagram

How To Prime The Hayward Super Pump:

The Hayward super pump is considered a self-priming swimming pool pump but this does not mean that the pump will actually prime itself if dry. When any type of swimming pool pump is dry you will have to fill the volute of the pump with water. This will allow the pump impeller to create a suction draw and start to pull the water from the swimming pool plumbing.

To prime the Hayward Super Pump you will just need a bucket of water or a garden hose. The first thing you will want to do is to remove the Super Pump Cover or also know as the pump basket cover. This lid will be made from clear plastic and will have two black handles knobs on each side. To remove the pump cover you will have to loosen each knob counter clockwise until the fold to the side. Once the knobs are loose you can remove the pump cover.

Now that the cover is off of the super pump volute also know as the wet end of the pump, you can take your bucket of water and pour it into the pump until the pump basket area is completely full of water. Now that the pump is full of water you can put the cover back onto the volute of the Hayward Super Pump. You swimming pool pump is now considered to be primed and you can now go ahead and turn on the pump. It may take a few minutes for the pump to fully be up to prime once it’s running.

How To Install The Hayward Super Pump

There are two fitting connections on the Hayward Super Pump housing. These inlets can be either 1.5″ inches or 2″ inches depending on the horsepower and size of your super pump. You will need to connect both side of the pump to your swimming pool system. On the front of the Hayward Super Pump is the suction side inlet. You will want to connect this side of the pump to the suction side of your swimming pool plumbing. The suction side of the swimming pool system is the side that has the main drain and skimmers hooked up to it. Some pools will not have a main drain, but every pool will have a skimmer or two. The suction side of the Hayward Super Pump will connect to the skimmer and the main drain.

On the top of the Hayward Super Pump is where you will find the discharge fitting connection. The discharge side of the super pump will get connected to the discharge side of your swimming pool system. The discharge side of the swimming pool system powers the swimming pool returns, pool vacuums and sometimes the pool slide or water fall if they are installed on the pool. Usually the discharge side of the Hayward Super Pump will get directly plumbed into the pump side of the multi-port directional valve and then the multi-port will connect to the discharge side of the pool plumbing. Once the both the suction side and the discharge side of the Hayward Pump are connected you can prime the pump and start it up making sure it reaches a full prime.

How To Drain The Hayward Super Pump

Draining the Super pump can be fast and easy to do. You will want to grab a 9/16″ box wrench or adjustable wrench and remove the two drain plugs that are on the bottom of the Hayward pump housing. You will find one drain plug on the from of the pump housing and one on the side. Once the water stops draining from the drain plugs holes your pump will now be drained.

How To Change The Hayward Pump Cover Gasket:

The pump cover gasket is easy and fast to change. This gasket often has to be replaced every few years because of all the opening and closing of the pump cover. The replacement of this gasket is part of the normal maintenance of the super pump. To install a new Hayward pump cover gasket you will need to remove the pump cover from the pump housing of the pump. You can do this by turning the two black hold down knobs counter clockwise until you can fold them to the side, so you can lift and remove the cover.

Once you have the cover off of the pump housing you can take a Flathead screwdriver and pry out the old pump cover gasket. Sometimes they melt or can be stuck, so you may have to do a bit of scraping if your gasket is really old. Most of the time the pump cover gasket will just pull right out. Once you have fully removed the old pump cover gasket you will want to insert the new gasket by firmly pressing the gasket into the groove on the pump housing. Once the gasket is set in place you can re-install the pump lid and re-start your pump, your cover gasket is now changed.

How To Change The Super Pump Motor Bearings:

If your super pump is “screaming” or making lots of noise chances are you will need to replace the motor shaft bearings that are inside of the motor. To do so you will have to remove the motor end from the pump housing. Once you have the motor removed from the pump housing you can remove the impeller and the pump seal housing. Now that the pump seal housing, the impeller and everything has been removed from the motor end you can start to take apart the motor.

You will need to remove the pump motor through bolts and then remove the front and the rear cover from the motor casing. Once the through bolts and the covers are removed you slide the motor armature shaft out from the casing. Once you removed the motor armature you will have to remove the old motor bearings and then press on new ones. Once your new bearings are pressed on to the motor armature shaft you can start to re-assemble the super pump in the reverse order that you took it apart. Take your time and put it back together the correct way. Do not forget to replace the water sling on the motor as well.

Super Pump Troubleshooting and Common Problems:

Problem: “My Hayward Super Pump Will Not Prime”

Solution: You will always want to make sure you have no air leaks in the suction side of the pump or the swimming pool plumbing. This can cause the pump not to prime. Make sure the unions and the pump cover are tight. Also make sure to fill the pump housing with water before starting the motor.

Problem: “I have air inside my pump cover and bubbles in my swimming pool.”

Solution: When you have air coming out of your swimming pool returns this means that your pump is sucking air from somewhere. Check your suction fitting and drain plugs to make sure they are tight and not leaking. You also will want to make sure you pump housing cover lid is good as well.

If You Have Any More Questions Or Problems Please Ask:

425 Comments

  1. Hammering made it turn over yesterday. Just a few taps as your video showed seemed to make it turn over and the motor didn’t turn off until i shut it off myself but then I couldn’t turn it over afterwards. I tried tapping it again but I don’t want to over due it and now it still wont turnover. Any ideas now on what’s wrong?

    Christian

    • Hi,
      Yes, There could be an area on the motor armature that is rusty and causing the motor to have a “dead spot”

      I would suggest cleaning the motor windings and armature.

      Let me kn ow if you need more help.

      Joseph

    • Hi Christian,

      Contact – PoolandSpa.com

      Tell them “WeT Head Media” sent you, they will take good care of you.

      Poolandspa.com Info:

      Phone: 1-702-437-4343 Fax: 1-702-568-0924
      Toll Free 1-800-876-7647
      Mailing Address NV: 672 Los Feliz Street, Las Vegas, NV 89110
      E-mail: customerservice@poolandspa.com

      The hours for our Customer Service Center are Monday – Friday 11AM – 5PM PST. To order parts, chemicals or supplies, either give us a call or simply go to the top of any page and go to the “Online Store” area of our site to shop. You may also either fax or email your order directly to our Shipping Department at the number listed above.

      • Thanks – I’ve sent them an e-mail and waiting for a response. By the way the pool pump is working now. It indeed was surface rust. I hammered the motor a few times while I got it running and now it turns over every time. Also right now I have a superglued together centrifugal switch so I’m hoping to receive an e-mail from pool and spa because I’m not sure how long this part will last in the motor as is.

        If you can point me to another place to order such a part and would you know the exact part number for the switch?

        Thanks…

  2. We live next to a 30 acre lake and have a pump & pumphouse set up to supply our lawn sprinkler system. It has worked well for several years but started giving us trouble this summer.

    The pump runs well and operates as it always has (apparently with no unusual noises) if we turn it on and off manually. Otherwise the sprinkler system runs through all the zones and stops when the controller shuts it off but the pump continues to run. Since no sprinklers are open it does not pump any water but when we turn on an auxiliary hose bib it pumps just fine. It holds a prime fairly well although if we leave it turned off for 3 or 4 days it does lose its prime. This does not seem to have anything to do with the failure of the pump to turn off.

    We live on Social Security and are hesitant to call a repair company. I have a good mechanical aptitude and want to know if this is something I can repair myself. There is a control box mounted on the pump (it is about 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 2 1/2″) that we have opened but don’t know what to do after we get into it.

    The pump has a Jacuzzi motor and is mounted directly on top of the pressure tank in the well house.

    Thank you very much for any help or advice you can give us. HELP!!

    Sincerely yours,

    Wayne Marley

    • Hi Wayne,

      So your saying that the pump is still running after the controller shuts it off, or are you asking about loosing the prime,

      Please let me know and I can help you further.

      Joseph

  3. Bought a used hayward super pump on line. Works great and very quiet. My old hayward pump had no green ground wire. Motor is grounded to earth with grounding clamp. When I connected two wires to L1 and L2 motor threw breaker switch after just 5 seconds. Rear of motor back by wiring glows red just before shutting down. Same 3/4 h.p as my old pump. suggestions?

    • Hi Russ,

      I would call an electrician and see what they say, Sounds like an electrical issue more then a problem with a pump, which you said was brand new…..

      Joseph

  4. Have a Hayward Superpump that is 3 years old, recently the metal casing is quite “hot”. It has not turned off re: Thermal Overload. I tried cleaning out the underbelly vents which were dirty, but it continues to be hot… So I’m trying determine cause of heat before i get to an overheating/thermal shut down stage. Pump water flow seems good, electrical connections/current is strong. Pump does not seems to be any louder than usual, but touch the outside and it is almost burn your fingers hot.

    Any advice?

    • Hi Josh,

      Are the motor bearings making noise or are they quite like when the pump was new?

      Has the motor ever been submerged in water like after a heavy rain?

      Joseph

      • Hi Joseph,

        The motor does not seem particularly loud. There has been plenty of rain this summer in Toronto (above average), the pump sits on a concrete slab with decent drainage i.e. slab is surrounded by a ditch filled w/ river rock. So it is possible that it got more than usual water exposure, totally submerged is unlikely.

  5. To help desk,
    Live in DAytona Beach …so have been replacing pool pump about 3 to 4 years, always 1.5HP and I buy a new one complete because its faster to swap out.
    This time all went well then after three months, it will not self prime aboute 80% of the time.
    I pull basket cover and fill with water and then all is well.
    ny insight on what is wrong?
    Ron

  6. I was going to replace my pump motor, but read that I can replace the bearings instead of getting a new one. The info was great but how difficult is it to “press” on the new bearings? Do you need a special tool or a lot of strength?

    • Hi Nick,

      You can use a deep well socket and hit that with a hammer to push the new bearings onto the motor shaft. Just make sure the O.D. of the socket matches the inner race of the bearing to avoid bearing damage.

      Let me know if you have any more questions.

      Joseph

  7. I have hayward pump/motor that will not pump water. I took the motor/pump combination to the dool store. They rebuilt the seals on the pump and said the motor is fine. I bought it home and bolted it back to the pump housing and it still does not work. It causes the breaker to trip after about a minute of use. There is water above the skimmer.

    Im out of answers

    shakree@hotmail.com

  8. Hello, i have a hayward super pump (modele c48l2n134a4, serial 8a95)and this summer it started to make a small noise (beering) and now some water came under the pump at the jonction of the motor.
    I am a handyman so what will i need to change and where can i buy the materials ?

    Thank you !

    • Hi Claude,

      It sure sounds like the mechanical pump seal has gone bad.

      If you look at the parts diagram above you can see the part labeled #13,

      You can buy a new mechanical pump seal at a local swimming pool supply store such as Leslie’s Pool Supply or of course from someone online as well.

      Just tell them you need a “pump seal” for the exact model and make of your pump.

      Please let me know if you have any more questions.

      Joseph

      • Hey ! thank you very much for the “fast’ response !
        Now, doing the replacement should i look to other parts while i’m there ?
        And will i need to replace gaskets ?

        • Hi,

          If the bearings are noisy I would replace them as well. As far as gaskets, I would just replace the water sling if that is old.

          Let me know if you need more help.

          Joseph

        • Thank you, i just saw everything.
          The leak seems coming from the jonction between the ceramic seal and the pump seal spring.
          I will replace those parts.

          Thank you again !

        • Oh by the way,
          can you tell me if they do sell a replacement “kit” for that king of job that will include everything ?

  9. I have a Hayward Super Pump, about 4 yrs old. When the pump is turned on it hums for about 15-20 seconds and then the pump starts and works fine. Is this a sign that the pump motor may need to be replaced or are their other potential causes for this humming sound? Thanks for your help.

    • Hi Scott,

      One of two things are wrong:

      1) The capacitor has gone bad in the motor ($14.99 to replace)

      or

      2) The pump is running on 220V and one of the hot legs has dropped out and the motor is only running on 110v

      Please let me know if you need more help.

      Joseph

      • Joseph,

        Thanks for the help, I replace the capacitor last night and the pump is working like new. It cost me $20 including shipping for the part and about 5 minutes to install. Great website!

  10. Have a Hayward Super pump II 2 HP.

    Have several issues:

    1. Pump does not come on whe I turn the timer to tthe on period. It runs when I switch it on manually.

    2. The tenant stated that it made a loud whinning noise as if the bearings were going bad. I checked it out and found the suction to be dry. After filling it and allowing it to cool it ran fine. I was not able to replicate the noise incident. In manual, the pump runs for 24 -36 hrs and it shuts off. The casing gets very hot. While it is running it works fine.

    Should I replace the motor and seals or is there something else I can do?

    Thanks
    Pedro

  11. I have the Hayward super pump II self priming pump. Lately I have had to prime it to get it working. I have a high pressure reading, about 30psi. The filtyer is clean. I also get air bubbles in the return line. Any suggestions?

    • Hi,

      Its sound like the motor bearings or bad or the pump has something jammed in it.

      I would remove the wet end of the pump and check to see if the bearings are in fact making the noise.

      Let me know if you have any questions or if you need more help,

      Joseph

  12. Joseph,

    I have a Hayward Super II 3/4 hp pool pump that has just started whining very loudly. I am assuming it is the bearings and am going to tackle replacing them. Do you know where I can get the bearings? I called Hayward and they said they don’t service the motors and to take it to a motor shop.

    Thanks,

    Mark

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