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Hayward Chlorinator Troubleshooting & Repair Guide

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The Hayward Chlorinator comes in an offline and an inline model. The inline chlorinator connects using PVC fitting and unions and is piped “inline” with the swimming pool plumbing. The “offline’ Hayward Chlorinator hooks up in a completely different way. This type hooks up using flexible chlorine feeder hoses with saddle connection fittings. Now that you know that there are two different styles of the chlorinators you will now have to find out what type you have before you can start working on it.Hayward Automatic Chlorinator Troubleshooting

Before working on either the in ground model which is the CL220 or the above ground swimming pool model which is the CL110 you will always want to make sure you can run the pool water though the chlorinator for a few minutes. Sometimes chlorine gas can build up inside the chlorinator and when you open it, the gas could make you sick. Always be sure to stand back when removing a chlorinator lid that has chlorine tablets inside of it. Try to always run water through the chlorinator by turning the pool on first, this was NOT a typo that was said twice, Chlorine gas can be very dangerous, be careful anytime you work with any type of swimming pool chlorine or tablets.
Hayward Automatic Chlorinator
When working on the chlorinator you will want to make sure that your swimming pool filter system is shut off. You will also want to unplug t he pump cord if possible to prevent the swimming pool timer from kicking on the pool pump while you are working on rebuilding your Hayward Chlorinator.

How To Replace The Hayward CL220 & CL110 Cover O-Ring

One of the most common o-rings that will leak on both the CL220 and the CL110 Hayward Chlorinators is the top cover gasket as shown in part number 6 in the diagram. This part is called the Hayward Chlorinator Cover Replacement O-ring if you should decide to buy the part at a local pool supply store such as Leslies or even online.

The first thing you will need to is to remove the hold down screw that connects the top of the cover to the bottom disk below. You will first need to remove the cover that protects the hold down screw. This hold down cover is part #1 in the diagram. The hold down screw you will be removing is part #2 in the diagram. Once you remove the screw, which is, plastic you can remove part #5, which is the bottom, halve of the cover. You will now to be able to see the o-ring. You can now take a flat head screwdriver and pop the o-ring of the bottom part of the cover disk. Once the old o-ring is removed you can replace it with the new Chlorinator o-ring that you have purchased. You will also want to put a bit of Jack’s Pool Magic grease on the o-ring to prevent it from drying out.
Hayward CL220 Chlorinator Parts Diagram
Now that the new o-ring is back on the disk you can start to put the chlorinator back together in the reverse order that was described you above. Be careful and do not over tighten the hold down screw or you could crack it. It’s only made from plastic so you need to be careful when tightening this back down.

How To Replace The Hayward CL110 Chlorine Feed Hoses

The Hayward CL110 Chlorinator is a bit different from the CL220 model. This model uses flexible black chlorine feeder hoses to connect the tank to the filter system. From time to time these lines will become brittle and need to be replaced. You can buy replacement Hayward Chlorine feeder lines online or from a local swimming pool supply store.

To replace the lines on the Hayward CL110 Chlorinator you will need to loosen the nuts at the end of each line. Turning them counter clockwise will loose these nuts, be sure to do it carefully or the chlorine feeder line nuts could break or strip out. Once the nuts are loose you can remove both the feed and return lines. The Hayward re-build kit for the Chlorinator should have new nuts and lines in the pack.

You will now want to measure the length of the lines before cutting them and it’s very important to cut them straight or they will leak. Once you have pre cut the lines you will want to slip on the new lock down nuts and screw them on to the saddle fittings that you removed them from. Make sure to hold the line in all the way as you are tightening them down to ensure a proper seal. If the lines leak after installing new ones your problem could be an end that is cut on an angle, go back and re-cut that end of the line and re-install the line and you should not have a leak.

How To Adjust The Chlorine Setting on The CL110 & CL220

On the side of the Hayward CL220 & the CL110 is an adjustment knob that has a dial setting on it. The dial setting ranges from 1 to 10. You can use this dial on the side of the chlorinator to control the amount of chlorine that goes back into your swimming pool. To increase the level of the chlorine into the pool you would want to turn the dial up towards the 10 setting. If you wanted to have the chlorine feeder feed at the lowest setting you would adjust the dial to 1. Most people keep the dial set on mid way, which is 5, until the pool is running for about 2 weeks and then fine tune it later on for the proper chlorine levels.

How To Check The Direction Of Flow On The Hayward Chlorinator

In order for the Hayward CL220 or the CL110 to work right you must have the chlorinator set and installed with the correct direction of flow. On the side of the chlorine feeder you will see an arrow that says, “flow”. This arrow needs to be pointed towards the return side of the swimming pool plumbing.

How To Drain The Hayward CL Style Chlorinator:

If you want to drain the chlorinator you will find a drain plug on the bottom. You can use a 9/16 open-end wrench to remove this drain plug. Turn the drain plug counter clockwise and then the drain plug will be able to be removed. Once you remove the drain plug all the water will properly drain from the chlorinator if it is standing in the upward position.

149 Comments

  1. We’re not sure which Chlorinator we have but it has been installed for approximately 5 years. We are unable to open the top to put in more tablets. Can you help us please.
    Al

    • I also have a similar Chlorine feeder the cover is hard to take off I hold the bottom my husband takes oven mitts with the grips and turns it while I hold it . Every year it takes us a good 10-20 to get it open. Hope that helps.

    • Al, we had the same problem, and we ended up using a strap wrench to open it. ( made of plastic and rubber) Once open, we put pool lube on the thread as well as on the o ring, and it has been a piece of cake to open ever since! Good luck!

  2. I have the Hayward cl220 we replaced the O ring and now it is leaking from the top what could this be

  3. I have just purchased an offline CL 110. Is the inlet opening the one under the dial? Is it the inlet opening that must be attached to send the water straight through to the jet into the pool?
    Thanks

  4. We have the Hayward CL220 model. Slow to dispense tablets as it use to. In the past I would need to add tablets every 10days or so….now after two weeks, only half empty. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

  5. my automatic chlorine feeder is full but my test strips are showing 0 chlorine, what could be the problem, have used two different kinds of test strips so the strips are not the problem

    • No chlorine when it’s full. My pool guy said to open the screw at the top with pool running. When water comes out top, tighten it back down. Haven’t tried yet tho. He says it bleeds out the air.

  6. my 220 seems to be collecting air. that causes an air lock (i think) then the entire pool outflow stops completely. any thoughts?

  7. I have a Hayward CL2200 that is leakiing around the plate that the inlet fitting screws into. is there any way to remove that plate?

  8. I have a Hayward inline chlorinator and I believe i have identified that area as being where i am having pressure problems from the new pump that i installed. The pump worked fine for 2 -3 weeks and then i noticed drop of suction. I have checked for air leaks and there does not seem to be any. I have taken it out and replaced fittings/connections 3x. I have removed the filter and run w/o and same results. When i turn on the pump and let it prime and begin to run w/ the filter top off, the filter housing will fill up and it appears to be running OK. Then to clamp the lid on and continue the suction slows down. The pressure at the filter is 22 psi.
    I’m thinking that the in line chlorinator is impeding the flow possibly an obstruction within or on the other side. Once the water flow gets to this point it slows down. This leads me to believe something is possibly blocking it here or shortly thereafter. I’ve have tried running a plumbers snake thru that line but it doesn’t make it too far. Does the water flow go straight thru the bottom section of the in line chorinator or does it get routed other than direct?

  9. The chlorinator top will not screw all the way to the latch. I have spent hours trying and cannot get it on. I am now running the pool but the top is not all the way to the latch. Can this cause other problems?

  10. I recently replaced my inline hayward chlorinator with an identical unit. This new unit makes a lot of noise that sounds like cavitation or turbulence. The chlorine feed appears to function properly. Why does it make so much noise?

    • Had the same problem for 3 days after buying and installing a new CL200. Found that there were rough plastic shards around the innermost part of the inlet/outlet valves (the opening where water flows from filter to return hose). Used a rounded file and removed the shards and the problem was immediately solved. Must be a manufacture flaw on some units but easily fixed.

      For those with hard to remove lids, use silicone grease on threads for both cap and unit.

  11. I have model cl200. It is full of chlorine tablets. The pool test strips show no chlorine in the pool. I have tried different strips. I know the ones work because theyare reading chlorine in my hot tub. Suggestions please..I worked last year.

    • My cl220 is fully open yet not showing chlorine on test strips. Problem is not the strips. What could be the problem? The restricter on inlet side seems kind of hard to blow thru.

  12. My cl220 inline is fully open yet test strip shows no chlorine. Problem is not strips. Restricter on inlet side is kind of hard to blow thru. Should it be? What else could it be? Worked fine last year

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